2011年4月1日 星期五

When Just Any Old Lycra Won't Do

There's a new term being bandied about in amateur sporting circles: psychotic cyclist. It seems a little unfair. After all, what is so wrong with squeezing oneself into garish, logo-ridden Lycra,Air max 2009 Running Shoe Flex grooves in the mid and outsole for flexibility. shaving one's legs and spending up to six hours a day with one's bum glued to the saddle of a $3,000 bike? Did I mention the main proponents were male?

You couldn't exactly call Rapha co-founder Simon Mottram psychotic, but one tour of the cycling apparel maker's office could easily convince you of an alternative reality where obsessive biking is the benchmark for "normal." His team is flushed with the excesses of a morning's four-hour bike ride (Wednesday morning is set aside for biking). Everywhere biking paraphernalia, from prototype shoes to books such as "The Great Road Climbs of the Pyrenees" and posters of cycling heroes, litters the former industrial warehouse in central London. Downstairs in the dispatch room, the 30-odd staff members' bikes are racked neatly (almost everyone commutes by bike). In Mottram's office, his favorite $4,500 Colnago bike rests against the wall. Its saddle and bar tape are white. Along with white cycling shoes, Mottram tells me, this is one of the markers of cycling cool. I'll have to take his word for it,Offers women's sexy high heels including boots, mules, platform shoes, pumps and sandals. because, whilst I admire his brand, the last time I got on a bike was to show my 5-year-old (now 12) how to ride without stabilizers.

It was his obsession with cycling and his inability to find the right kit that led Mottram to launch Rapha in 2004 with Luke Scheybeler above a haberdashery store in Camden Town. "There was nothing out there for cyclists like me who wanted a brand that was authentic and unique," says Mottram, who has a background in marketing and luxury-goods consultancy.Find a fashionable range of women boots and ladies shoes all in one place online. He points to a book of iconic black-and-white prints of the great European riders of the past—Bartali and Coppi looking handsome and somewhat predictably well-dressed. It's a long way from the swathes of acid-Lycra-clad riders that increasingly circle the parks and roadways of Britain. "The kit is really so bad that we haven't had to work very hard to stand out," Mottram says, pointing to a biking magazine with a cover showing a rider in a bright red, overly logo-ed top, tight Lycra shorts and a multicolored helmet. He works on the principle of "debadging"—normally applied to cars byBuy Knee High Boots with a price guarantee and top rated customer service. glacial coolsters who (and this is his example) willingly turn up at the Mercedes factory in Stuttgart to take delivery of their new car, which has been stripped free of the typical badges and markings.

But it was actually the color that Mottram objected to most with existing cycling kit. "I once owned a bright-yellow skin suit," he says. "It looked good on me maybe one day a year when I was really tanned and really fit; otherwise, it just looked very wrong." By way of direct contrast, black was and is Mottram's choice of primary colorway; it defines the brand, together with other more saturated colors and accents, from their trademark murky pink to blues, grays, reds and off-white. The styles are simple, with set-in shoulders, pared-down forms and the type of finish you might expect from ready-to-wear. Gilets start at $115, merino base layers from $50 and touring shorts from $70.I'm a small investor in a startup company deploying a podiatrist-patented method for adding comfort to high-fashion, high-heel shoes for women. In association with tailor Timothy Everest, the brand created what you might call a cycling sports jacket—the type of thing you could cycle to the City in and not have to change for a meeting—complete with fold-up front hems and action back pleats, and water- and dirt-proof technology. Rapha's collaboration with racing fan Paul Smith has yielded plenty of noncycling customers, whilst the company sponsors a pro-Continental team here in the U.K.

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